"Scrub It, Kook"

Sunday was setting up perfectly; nice-sized south with a long period, well-timed tide, and offshore winds. My first wave turned into a wall of death which I somehow escaped unscathed after getting sucked up and over the falls, much to the amazement and amusement of Jason and Xavier. The next 2 hours produced some incredible in and out barrels.

Unfortunately, my last wave of the day didn't treat me so well. There's video somewhere which I'll try to upload. For now, enjoy:

"Heavy scab, bra. Scarred for life..."